Located in eastern France’s Côte de Nuits sub-region in Burgundy’s Cote d’Or, Morey-St-Denis has often been overshadowed by its more high-profile neighbors, specifically Gevrey-Chambertin to its east and Chambolle-Musigny to its west. But its lack of aggressive PR hasn’t stopped the communefrom being home to five Grand Cru vineyards and 20 Premier Crus, with many from both classifications considered some of the finest wine that Burgundy has to offer.
Morey-St-Denis can easily trace its viniculture history as far back as the 12th century. Like many regions in Burgundy, religious communities, particularly Roman Catholic abbeys, were the first to cultivate the land in a dedicated and organized fashion. Cistercian monks were some of the earliest champions of wine-growing in this village, with control of the land eventually passing to only three families of nobility as centuries progressed. The village received its own appellation in 1936.
While Morey-St-Denis produces both red and white wines, over 95% of production is dedicated to Pinot Noir, with the remaining 5% shared among Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. The 140-hectare expanse of land, which literally acts like a bridge between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, is almost equally divided among village, Grand Cru and Premier Cru classifications. Not surprisingly, the village vineyards are planted at the highest and lowest elevations of the slope, with Grand and Premier Crus residing in the more desirable mid-slope for optimal drainage and positioning. The terroir itself is characterized by where it lies, and by extension, influences the climat’s various wine profiles. Limestone and clay dating back millions of years provide the soil’s foundation, while common European oolite, or sedimentary limestone, lies farther up-slope. Conversely, fossiliferous limestone can be found at the lower end of the slope, where the soil also contains much higher proportions of marl.
The character of Pinot Noir hailing from Morey-St-Denis is often debated among wine experts. Some think that it reflects a union of its two bordering wine-producing villages – Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny – by featuring the strength and assertiveness of the former in tandem with the delicacy of the latter. It is definitely known for bright red colorations, which can range from a bright ruby tone to a deep garnet, with each touched by purple highlights. Fruit flavors such as blackcurrant, black cherry and bilberry define their bouquet, with additional hints including violet and licorice present as well. As the wine matures, a pleasant mix of leather and mossy truffles ascend, with some even evoking a musk-driven undertone. With well-rounded tannins, these wines are certainly masculine and structured, and their effusive body is a perfect complement to their deep fruit origins.
While Morey-St-Denis may still be a more reticent commune when compared to others in the Côte d’Or,it has nonetheless earned its place among the Bourgogne greats. Diverse, eclectic and fully representative of Burgundy’s iconic rustic charm, its history has more than stood the test of time.
